A Day in The Desert - aka an excuse not to work!

Today (April 21, 2009) I went to the desert.
I had planned to go this weekend with two other volunteers but it didn’t end up working out (we did go for a walk but didn’t make a picnic out of it). So I was very excited when at 9:30 (30 minutes after I arrived at work) my counterpart comes into my office and says, “we’re going to the desert! Are you coming?”. I immediately replied, “Yes!”.
It took 30 minutes to figure out the transportation plan. Then a total of 8 minutes in a car to drive to one of the cleaning ladies houses (which is located on the very edge of town). From her house myself, my counterpart, and the two cleaning ladies at my clinic walked toward the road where we were going to put up some sort of signal so the rest of the women (who either walked or got a ride) would see it and know to start walking into the desert. The walk from the house of origin was about 20 minutes.
On the way I watched these HUGE ants scurry underfoot. I saw a small herd of cattle being shepherded by two young boys. I looked for the sometimes illusive desert poppies. I found several bunches of them. And I enjoyed simply being outdoors in the warm weather relaxing on a walk.
When we arrived and finally decided on a final spot to do the cooking and eating I snapped a few pictures of a turtle one of the women found then walked back toward the house to get water. I took one trip there and back with water and a second trip half way to help one of the other women. When everyone successfully met up we put together the cooking area (a large black pot balanced on a metal stand that was balanced on three large rocks), gathered fire wood and began cooking the soup. Then we relaxed, drank çaý, and I began to bake in the sun (very glad I managed to remember to bring my sunscreen in the rush).
When the meat was cooked in the soup we began our feast: soup (pretty good soup), tomatoes, cucumbers, nuts, cookies, chocolate, çaý and, of course, vodka. We managed to finish two bottles over the next 20 minutes. We subsequently sank into a chaotic bliss where we stayed for the next hour and half.
The return trip I opted to walk (it was just under an hour from our picnic site to my house). When I finally returned to work it was 3:45pm. This means that I had an hour and 45 minutes left of work. Which makes a day that would normally be 6 hours a mere 2 hours and 15 minutes, and all of the doctors and nurses left long before that hour and 45 minutes were done. I ended up locking up the clinic by myself after I had done a significant amount of work. I still had to spend about 2 hours this evening finishing up the work I needed to do today.
Overall, it was a really great day! Even if I did bring my work home with me (although as a PCV I am constantly ‘at work’ so I guess that means I ALWAYS bring my work home…).
Follow up: several days later.
I ended up going into the desert another two times this week, although, each time was to work. My host family has a large plot of land out in the desert a little way where they grow grain and watermelons. We had a rather nasty hail at the beginning of the week which apparently ruined the watermelon they had already planted so we had to plant again. The first day I spent following a hole – digger and dropping 6 – 7 seeds placed in a circle into the hole. With all of the bending over my thighs and lower back were in a lot of pain.
The second day I did more of what we did on the first day, but then we spent 40 minutes pulling weeds. These are huge mini-trees that we were pulling, with our hands. They are resting in sand, so most are not terribly difficult to pull out, but I did end up cutting my hands and getting many barbs stuck in my palms and fingers. Again, my thighs and lower back were in pain. But it was a very enjoyable time, I got to talk with some of my family members, and got some good exercise and sun out of the deal.
Also, my father said a few days ago that we would go into the desert, I believe his exact words were, “We’ll show you a prettier part of the desert”. So, I await that experience.

My 23rd Birthday - Turkmen Style!

In an effort to explain how Turkmen birthdays work and are similar/different to an American birthday I have decided to tell you about my 23rd birthday which I hope will be a blend between traditional Turkmen and American. I’ll write throughout the day and let you know how it is going.
It is 8:36 in the morning, I woke up to a phone call from my family in the states wishing me a Happy Brithday, then went to the tualet and banya (bathroom and shower room to brush my teeth), got a text from another volunteer wishing me a happy birthday and sat down for breakfast. Today it was a hardboiled egg, bread (not hot, but made yesterday so still semi-soft) with fresh butter made this morning, and of course çaý. I am now pulling everything I need together for work and will be departing shortly. On my way I plan to stop at the dukan (store) to see if they have tomatoes. I checked yesterday but was told they would have them today, we’ll see. You will see what the tomatoes are for later in this post.
6:25 pm: Work was nice and relaxing, I finished the lesson plan for my kindergarten trip tomorrow. Then I read a book on travel in Italy to prepare for the cruise my wonderful parents are taking me on in May.
At 11:45 someone came to pick me up for the lunch toý that my counterpart threw for me. It was an overall exciting toý on that lasted for 3 full hours and included at least 4 shots of vodka on my part and a lot of meaty meals. There were seven additional people there; 4 doctors, 2 nurses, and one of the women who cleans the clinic. I think we all enjoyed ourselves.
Immediately upon arriving back home I began to prepare my special birthday meal. Lasagna. I began by making the noodles (I’ve only done this once before and didn’t have a recipe either time). I included an egg, water, a little oil, salt and flour. Then I rolled out very thin dough and cut them into long slices and laid them out to dry. I proceeded to make the sauce (tomato paste, tomato mix my sister-in-law made, onions, garlic and Italian spices). Then I went to the garden to pick some spinach from the garden. As the sauce simmered away I proceeded to make a cake (crazy cake recipe) and as the cake baked I made the icing (powdered sugar, butter, vanilla and some water). When the cake came out of the oven I layered the pasta, sauce, spinach and this cheese I bought in Charjew called toureg – it is similar to ricotta. Then at 6:15, a full 3 hours after I started the lasagna went into the oven. It took me another 15 – 30 minutes to clean everything up and now I am simply waiting for it to be all done and ready to eat. I will pull it out at the same time that my family puts the palow out to eat. We will end the evening with a cake. I’ll let you know how the rest goes later tonight, right now I am going to watch some of The Office.
Dinner and dessert are both over and done with. The lasagna didn’t go over as well as I had hoped. I really enjoyed it but there is a lot leftover. I feel like I’ll be eating lasagna for the next week. The cake I made went over really well. My sister-in-law told me it was a really good cake (Turkmen will generally always say food is good because they don’t want to insult you so really good means she truly enjoyed it). Although, there is a lot of that left over as well. I think they were all worried I might not have enough to eat and because I made it for myself they were worried it would be bad if I didn’t have enough. However, I have ¾ of a very large pan of lasagna leftover and over half a cake. Overall it was a very nice day.

The Great Candy Scramble!

Before I tell you the story I have to tell you this is not an isolated event. It has happened several times since arriving at site, however, for storytelling purposes I will explain one of the occasions in which it happened.
Last night I went to a doglan günün toý (birthday party) for the husband of a woman who works at the kindergarten, she and her husband are also related to my host family in some way. After the meal was over (a two course Turkmen style toý with soup and palow – rice with meat and carrots and onions) everyone still at the house gathered in the room I was sitting in and had the birthday man try on most of the clothing items he got as gifts for all of the awed spectators. Then, naturally, everyone says, “Mädik bolsun” – congratulations on your gift! After he has tried on most of the clothing items a woman standing behind him begins to throw candy in the air, there is a great squeal from all of the women in the room and everyone begins to scramble to pick up as much candy as possible. I don’t, unless it happens to fall in my lap, because I’m not a big fan of Turkmen candy. The mysterious hidden woman throws handful after handful of candy onto the tablecloth in the middle of the room. Children are grabbing for the candy but the older women are the most ruthless, pushing children aside to get to the candy and squealing with delight when they have finally captured said candy.
The event sucked me back to my former years standing on the side of the road watching the parade go by. First, the large marching bands with huge drum sections that scared our poor puppy so she cowered beneath dad’s lawn chair, then the floats with people throwing candy. I specifically remember the joyful spirit of the whole event. ‘The Great Candy Scramble’ always brings back those memories and makes me smile, until I am scolded for not scrambling myself, at which point I grab a piece of candy nearest me, smile, and place it in my lap.

Challenges in Language

Last week I was doing my weekly health lesson at the Kindergarten. The theme was, “I love myself” and I asked each child to draw a picture of them doing something they are really good at. It was an extremely simple concept and one that I thought would be good for this group of kids. I didn’t expect a lot from their pictures because they have really just started to color (I am the only person to have ever given them crayons to use). Before I came they were given colored pencils about once a month to use in the classroom and I have never seen small children using any art tools in the home.
I began the lesson by giving them a few examples then handed out the paper and crayons. My first classroom (4 – 5’s) didn’t really seem to understand the assignment and most of their pictures turned out to be of fruit. We spent the first four or five weeks learning about food so they usually resort to food drawings if they don’t understand. I didn’t worry too much because one of my goals is to get the children to be proud of their work. I walked around the room giving out lots of praise and encouragement.
My second classroom (3 – 4’s) was even worse. I didn’t get a single thing that looked like it could be something that they do well. Again, I got more fruits and vegetables, a lot of circles and then some that are best described as scribbles. But then again, some of these children are only 3 years old.
My final classroom (5 – 6’s) I was a little discouraged about the topic but had a bunch of really great pictures that I love to put up on my wall to decorate and to send home to those of you who send me letters. I am explaining the topic and assignment to the students and then pass out the paper and crayons and they look at me like they don’t understand. So, I ask, “Do you understand?”. They all say yes and then look to their teacher. [This is part of the non-direct nature of Turkmen culture]. The teacher goes to the board and draws a bunch of grapes. [Again because the students have just begun to draw a lot of the time they want to have an example on the board that they copy, I try to get away from this because I want them to be creative and not simply copy what already exists].
I stared at those grapes for a good minute before I understood what was happening. In Turkmen “I love myself” is “Men özüm söýyän”, while “I love grapes” is “Men üzüm söýyän”. It took me another minute to recover from the shock of why no one in the previous two classrooms seemed to understand me. I guess the idea of loving yourself is not prevalent and therefore they assumed that I meant grapes. This is why I got so many pictures of fruit and vegetables. Once I explained the difference this oldest group produced some beautiful pictures of people. The people were still not doing anything, but I had made progress. And I still make mistakes with my language…

Dr's

International Women's and Girl's Day

International Women and Girls Day is theoretically an international holiday to appreciate all of the things the women and girls do in all of our lives. It is on March 8th each and every year. In Turkmenistan the day involves giving presents to the girls and women in your life. I have received (as of March 4th) two silk flowers. I purchased a bunch of candy for the women and girls in my life here and have begun distributing it as I see fit.
One of the neatest things is that the President of the country takes part in this event. He has set aside enough money for each woman and each girl to get 40 new mannat ($13 – 14). This may not seem like a huge thing, but I could go back and forth between Charjew and home twice for that amount of money. Remember this is a 2+ hour drive each direction.
For my International Women and Girls Day I went to a toý at my counterpart’s house. It also coincided with her husband’s birthday. The toý was split into two halves, the first half was made up of about 6 young women with their very young children – all were under the age of 2. Then the second half was myself, my counterpart, my counterpart’s husband, my sister-in-law (my counterparts daughter), Kervan (my nephew), and an older woman who I believe is my counterpart’s mother. We ate and drank and ate and drank. It was a very nice small gathering which I really enjoyed.
Because the United States does not celebrate this holiday I ask each of you to do one thing when you read this – please let the women and girls in your life know how much you love and appreciate them and in our own way we will spread knowledge of this very important idea. Peace!

Wierd Wednesday

Today has been a very odd day, but I think it has been very ‘Turkmen’, therefore I have decided to share it with you.
The day began as many others do. I woke up, very groggily, proceeded to breakfast and then prepared for my Wednesday. As I’ve previously mentioned I spend Wednesday mornings at the kindergarten and I’ve begun (today) to spend Wednesday afternoons teaching girls ‘American cooking’. I had a lot to prepare for today.
Once it was all loaded into my backpack I began the trek to the kindergarten. On the way I stopped at the dukan to purchase a few eggs for the food we were going to make later.
My lesson for the kindergarteners today was not health related. This week is international Peace Corps week so I dedicated my lesson today to talking about America. My goal was to show the students the diversity of America. Diversity of people, places, landscapes, holidays, beliefs, traditions, etc. The students really liked all the pictures I showed them, although I could be mistaking that for their love of my computer. The lesson went really well and I was pleased. I also got a silk flower from one of the girls (this weekend is women’s and girls day so most women and girls get presents, but look for another blog entry on the details of that holiday).
Following the three lessons I walked to the kitchen to say hi to the cooks and chefs and they of course offered me some food. I ate a little knowing that I already had lunch plans but not wanting to offend. I had some bread, some potatoes (served with sugar), and some soup along with the traditional tea.
Onto my next location – a woman named Jemagül who lives near the kindergarten. Her daughter and a few friends taught me how to make Turkmen carpets, it was hard and I am really bad at it. The muscles in my lower arm hurt for a full day after I learned. Anyway, her daughter Arazoul is really great and I have been visiting their house for lunch most days after I’m done with the kindergarten. I’m also supposed to be teaching her and her friends how to make American food (today was going to be our first lesson), but they are all busy making another carpet at another house. We might try to make start this club in a week or two. I hope it all works out! So, I ate lunch there (komelekly işlýk – mushroom Turkmen pizza, which is really more like a calzone). I stayed for a while and chatted and showed some pictures because I had my computer with (I used it to show the pictures to the kids at the kindergarten). After I have spent nearly 2 hours and it is clear the girls are not coming this week to make food I decide it is time to go, I have some things at home that I have to do. I make my polite excuse to leave and begin the walk back home. At this point my backpack is feeling really heavy and I am getting tired and warm.
I walk past all of the school students who are outside on their break and are all staring at me and commenting to their friends. Have you ever walked into a room where you know everyone is talking about you? It was like that except that I can’t help but laugh. The situation is simply so absurd, I know they are all talking about me, about what I’m wearing, about how strange I am and whispering things like, “that’s the American”. And unlike in America where people will avoid looking at you when they’re talking about you Turkmen are not afraid to stare and to continue staring.
So, I’ve past the mob of kids at the school and am nearly back to the dukans (very close to my house) when this guy comes running across the street yelling my name. He looks vaguely familiar. I’m in a friendly mood so I decide to stop and talk with him. He also knows my name (although this isn’t too hard to figure out, I’ve had people who I’ve never met before come up to me and call me by name). He says, where were you? I think, hmmm, I’m really close to home so maybe I could make a run for it. I look at him in that look of nonunderstanding and he says, “Bibi, Ogulgeldi, Jemagül, and Akjagül are all at my house, where have you been?” I know all of those individuals (they are co-workers) so I decide this guy might be trustworthy, I know I can get myself back from nearly anywhere around here, the village is so small that everyone knows everyone else, I handed around a sheet last week to all my doctors and nurses and asked them to sign up for me to myhman (I didn’t see the sheet after it was passed out) and I figure this could be one of those times, and frankly I don’t have much to do that afternoon. The guy points to his car and says, “yer” (come). I hop in the backseat and off he goes, flying at incredible speeds through the mud streets. He pulls up to a house that I know I’ve seen someone at before and I think, it seems like this guy was telling the truth. He honks his horn as I get out of the car. A girl comes out of the house and then turns and yells, “mom!”. Bibi emerges and looks really happy. I am relieved.
At this point I’ve already eaten two meals and I am brought into the house where all the settings for a mini toý are set out. I know that I have to eat a fair amount of food not to offend. Then I notice the main dish – pumpkin manty – one of my favorite meals and I know that these were made for me. Now I have to eat a lot… I proceed to eat as much as I can. Then the vodka comes out and we toast. I ended up spending another hour and 15 minutes there eating and talking with my co-workers. I also made a date for yet another myhman event on Saturday.
On our walk back we ran into many people and it took us another 25 minutes to go on a 5 minute walk. Now, I am here (at my house) exhausted but in a good way, tired due to the alcohol, but really quite pleased how the day turned out. It was weird but good.

Kelsey with counterpart and supervisor. Kelsey wearing her Turkmen Don that she had made. Note the earlier blogs and the challenge to have this made. Note the mothers every where unite.

Kelsey's family